These Are The Best Restaurants In Williamsburg Right Now
Sept. 7, 2017, 1:24 p.m.
Bray all you want about how Williamsburg died with the Apple Store, but it's still one of the best dining neighborhoods in NYC.
Regardless of your feelings about hipsterburg, condoburg, touristburg, Williamsburg boasts one of the strongest dining scenes in all five boroughs, packed with all kinds of cuisines, vibes and price points. Places like Trash Bar and other DIY venues like Death By Audio may be all but extinct in the neighborhood, but it's still an incredible place to dine and drink.
Below, our picks for best of the best in Williamsburg.
THE BROOKLYN STARJoaquin Baca's chicken fried homage to the cuisine of the Lone Star State is still crazy after all these years. The portions of superb chicken fried steak, finger-licking duck wings, and gut-busting meatloaf sandwiches are all Texas-sized, which often means a single entree can more than feed two people. This is the kind of neighborhood restaurant that's candle-lit enough for a first date and convivial enough for a brunch with parents on the weekend. If our doctors allowed it, we'd snag a seat once a week.
The Brooklyn Star is located at 593 Lorimer Street (718-599-9899, the-brooklyn-star.com
THE COMMODORE You could argue that this joint operates more as a bar than a restaurant, but you can't argue that the food isn't spectacular and worth a visit even if you aren't imbibing. Founded by one of the originators of Pies 'n' Thighs, the spot's got a killer fried chicken plate, loaded up with four meaty thighs, biscuits, hot sauce and honey butter. Their nachos are exemplary, their burgers the platonic burger ideal, and their adult cheese addictive.
The Commodore is located at 366 Metropolitan Avenue (718-218-7632, no website)
(Katie Sokoler/Gothamist)
ST. ANSELM Joe Carroll opened St. Anselm in the spring of 2010, completing a triumvirate of dining establishments—BBQ joint Fette Sau and beer mecca Spuyten Duyvil make up the trio—at the intersection Metropolitan and Havemeyer. The restaurant quickly established its dominance over animal flesh, a reputation it retains today with its steakhouse-style chops of beef, lamb and pork; whole grilled poultry and fish; and smaller fare like grilled clams and other mollusks. The restaurant is routinely awarded best steakhouse distinctions and this author can say with confidence that the Butchers Steak with garlic butter is one of the city's most delicious.
St. Anselm is located at 355 Metropolitan Avenue (718-384-5054; stanselm.net)
SAMURAI MAMA Ramen gets a lot of play in NYC but udon deserves its due and fans of the thick noodles in savory broths have a champion in this Grand Street mainstay. Plump noodles swim in baths of soup studded with things like pork belly and scallion, shrimp tempura, and plum, shiso and daikon radish. Their handmade Mama Pork Gyoza—connected by an ethereal rice flour "wing"—are a must-order and their soy sauce method for their sushi selection unique: they offer plain, mildly wasabi-seasoned, and a heavily wasabi-seasoned version in ceramic cups with teeny, tiny ladles to dole out the desired amount for your sushi. Eggplant fans must also try the savory Age Nasu appetizer: deep-fried Asian eggplant and dried baby shrimp over a small bed of lettuce that soaks up the delicious sauce.
Samurai Mama is located at 205 Grand Street (718-599-6161, samuraimama.com)
Vongole pizza at Barano (Eric Medsker)
BARANO When it comes to pasta, this is one of the best options in the neighborhood. Staten Island-born chef Albert Di Meglio's house-made varieties include saffron gigli doused in Calabrian honey, pecorino cheese and black pepper and a green garlic lumache tossed with a spicy goat ragu, gochujang, breadcrumbs and cheese. The restaurant also bakes up unique pizzas, stretches and smokes its own mozzarella cheese, and does wonders with the humble artichoke. Their beer selection is also one of the most interesting in the neighborhood at the moment, stocked with unusual bottles, cans and drafts.
Barano is located at 26 Broadway (347-987-4500, baranobk.com)
(Bess Adler)
SUNDAY IN BROOKLYN Boasting one of the neighborhood's most darling second floor dining spaces, this relative newcomer has become a go-to brunch spot for locals and a top-notch dinner date spot for destination diners. The all-day restaurant offers up pastries, egg sandwiches, and simple scrambles in the morning, expanding their brunch offerings to include a standout plate of house-smoked salmon and pastrami black cod and a whole wood roasted fish for dinner. The excellent bar program should be a first stop while awaiting a table or for a quick drink in the afternoon.
Sunday in Brooklyn is located at 348 Wythe Avenue ((347-222-6722, sundayinbrooklyn.com)
EMMY SQUARED Nothing caused a bigger splash in the pizza community than this Detroit-style pie spot situated practically on top of the feeder road to the BQE. Founders Matt and Emily Hyland had already won accolades for their pizza-making skills at sister restaurant Emily, but the buttery, supple, cheesy, decadent pies they're making in Williamsburg have solidified them as genuine pizza royalty. Our favorites are the Roni Supreme with Calabrian chilies and the Emmy, a white pie with mozzarella, banana peppers, onions, ranch and sauce on the side. But don't skimp on their non-pizza offerings either, like a burger that requires an entire sleeve of napkins and Okonomi Fries with friendly wisps of bonito flake waving atop a bowl of waffle fries.
Emmy Squared is located at 364 Grand Street (718-360-4535, emmysquaredbk.com
DINER/MARLOW & SONS Andrew Tarlow deserves a lot of credit for making Williamsburg a destination for dining—for a restaurant not named Peter Luger—opening restaurants in the neighborhood as far back as the '90s. Remember them? In 1999, Tarlow debuted Diner in a Kullman dining car dating back to the twenties, then followed suit with Marlow & Sons next door in 2004. Even if they weren't longtime institutions, they'd be worth a visit for the finesse and familiarity of their food. Menus at both change daily, but you're probably likely to find a burger of some kind at Diner, and a comforting but interesting piece of roasted protein at Marlow, which also serves stellar oysters and a fantastic breakfast egg and cheese breakfast biscuit.
Diner is located at 85 Broadway (718-486-3077, dinernyc.com // Marlow & Sons is located at 81 Broadway (718-384-1441, marlowandsons.com
Shawarma over Hummus (Zizi Limona)
ZIZI LIMONA Science says a Mediterranean diet may help you live longer and we'd be content moving into this South Williamsburg spot permanently on its health and taste merits alone. The kitchen packs tons of flavors into regional staples, like the "Crazy Baba," which whips charred eggplant into a smooth consistency along with salty feta and basil, which turns the mixture a pale green. Its version of Shawarma tops a creamy mound of hummus with charred onions, warm whole chickpeas, and lamb and chicken freshly sliced from the spit. You can park your cot next to ours.
Zizi Limona is located at 129 Havemeyer Street (347-763-1463; zizilimona1.com
DENIZEN Those as enamored of cheese as we are can find a friend in this small, neighborhood spot, that further distinguishes itself by offering a soundtrack consisting of vinyl tracks. Don't let the records dissuade you: this isn't a twee listening station, but rather a cozy spot to experience the full range of all things fromage, as interpreted by chef John Poiarkoff. The menu isn't always the same, but look out for the delicious smoked white fish, the burrata with anchovies, and whatever special they have on that evening. Oh, and hunks of whatever cheese they're serving from the special box behind the bar.
Denizen is located at 88 Roebling Street (929-337-6412, denizenbrooklyn.com)
LEUCA It seemed like only a matter of time until one of NYC's most prolific and profitable restaurateurs came to Williamsburg, and that Andrew Carmellini has managed to make a hotel restaurant feel special and intimate—and not just a room service necessity—a testament to his long career doing just that at his other restaurants elsewhere in the city. The service is attentive and generous—particularly the top-notch sommeliers—and the food exquisite; interesting but deeply satisfying. The pastas and the dips are go-to orders, but there's not a dud on the menu. For dessert, the Sophia Loren is a must.
Leuca is located at 111 North 12th Street, inside the William Vale hotel (718-581-5900, leuca.com
BAMONTE'S Williamsburg's vibrant Italian community has been largely sidelined by the hipster/condo influx over the past decade or two, but the century plus-old Bamonte's (it opened in 1900) is still kicking it from its spot right by the BQE. A meal there feels a little like walking into the set of The Godfather; the place is complete with tuxedoed waiters, white tablecloths, low-lit chandeliers and a decidedly old-school Brooklyn-Italian crowd. The food's not as fancy as some of Williamsburg's newer, hipper Italian eateries, but the classic pasta dishes are more than serviceable; try the homemade ravioli or rich fettucini alfredo, and you'll stay full for days. Save time for a drink at the bar up front, which offers its own magical time warp. (Rebecca Fishbein)
Bamonte's is located at 32 Withers Street (718-384-8831)
LILIA On the topic of fancy Italian, there was not splashier opening than this restaurant from esteemed chef Missy Robbins. Lilia blew into the condo-heavy section of the neighborhood between Havemeyer and Roebling, offering a comfortable landing spot for the Manhattan "power crowd." Robbins's skills shine brightly with the homemade pastas like the Mafaldini with pink peppercorn and bounty of seafood from grilled and stuffed clams and whole grilled fish. Scoring a table can be an exercise in futility, especially on the weekends, but there's often a free solo seat at the bar, even during peak dinner hours.
Lilia is located at 567 Union Avenue (718-576-3095, lilianewyork.com
ZENKICHI If you like your restaurants nearly indistinguishable from the outside and specializing in high end omakase experiences, this decade plus Japanese eatery fits the bill. The menu changes with whatever's in season, like tomatoes and soft shell crabs, for example. Expect at least one sashimi course, a warm fish entree like cod or yellowtail collar, and several smaller plates punctuating the meal. The restaurant also offers vegetarian and gluten-free omakase, plus a limited a la carte menu.
Zenkichi is located at 77 North 6th Street (718-388-8985, zenkichi.com
CHIMU There's another excellent Peruvian restaurant in Williamsburg, Llama Inn, located on a wedge of land practically underneath the BQE. But we're partial to this convivial spot that's been serving basil spaghetti for over a decade in a similarly situated location underneath the highway. This place gets packed on the weekends, especially with large parties dining on platters of Jalea—a giant plate of fried seafood studded with red onions and tomatoes—Tallarin Verde con Skirt Steak (that bright green spaghetti under sliced steak), and other Peruvian specialties. The portions are enormous and the pisco sours potent.
Chimu is located at 482 Union Avenue (718-383-0045)
Sunchoke Celeriac Chowder at Yuji Ramen (Scott Lynch/Gothamist)
YUJI RAMEN/OKONOMI By day, this bi-concept restaurant serves ichiju sansai, a Japanese set meal that consists of the fish of the day, miso soup, rice, vegetables and an egg. It's a meal you're more likely to find in a Japanese household, whereas Yuji Ramen, the nighttime iteration, is something more akin to the restaurant model. The ramen here is predominantly seafood-based—though their bacon and egg variety is very popular—and specializes in mazemen, a brothless kind of ramen.
Yuji Ramen/Okonomi is located at 150 Ainslie Street. Okonomi operates weekdays 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. and weekends 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; closed Wednesday. Yuji Ramen is open weeknights from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. (okonomibk.com)
Honorable Mentions:
MOTORINO, CARACAS AREPA BAR and CAFE MOGADOR, all wonderful, all of whom have locations elsewhere in the city.
AURORA: Before all of these new, romantic Italian spots showed up there was this pretty restaurant with a gorgeous backyard and homey but refined pastas and plates. It's still there, and still worthy.
MAISON PREMIERE If you're a scenester who eats raw oysters, this is for you.
PIES N THIGHS The tourists long ago "discovered" this fried chicken pioneer, but if you can score a table, your stomach will thank you.
BIRDS OF A FEATHER Still a bit premature to call this as the neighborhood's best, but if this brand-new Sichuan can keep its sea legs, it's poised to be a destination.
CHEESEBOAT Cheesy, buttery boats of Georgian bread? Say no more.
YOLA'S Besides the Tacos Morelos truck parked near the Bedford L stop, this low-key spot has some of the neighborhood's best Mexican food. Fight me.