How to eat spectacularly well in Jackson Heights, Queens

Jackson Heights has been known for food for centuries.

In the 1800s, the Queens neighborhood was part of Elmhurst and largely a remote patchwork of farmland. Early in the century, farmers grew staples like wheat, barley, oats and hops — the latter a necessity for beer brewing.

But in 1910, a massive land deal turned part of the neighborhood into European-style apartment buildings, with many complexes possessing a courtyard and occupying an entire city block. That housing still stands today, while single family homes and more modestly scaled apartment buildings filled in much of the extra space. Commercial strips developed along Roosevelt Avenue, 74th Street, 82nd Street and Junction Boulevard, all served by the 7 train, which speeded development after 1917 when the line was extended to Corona.

These days, Jackson Heights is home to a population of 175,000, speaking 160 different languages — perhaps the city’s most diverse neighborhood. And that diversity is reflected in its restaurants, among which are Mexican, Nepalese, Colombian, Bangladeshi, Ecuadorian, Tibetan, and Italian — to name just a few — and at least two dozen other nationalities and ethnicities, by my count, not to mention all the food trucks for which the region has become famous.

Here are 10 restaurant recommendations, beginning at the mass-transit heart of the neighborhood, at 74th and Roosevelt Avenue, heading north and then east.

For the purposes of this collection, the borders of the neighborhood run from Astoria Boulevard on the north, falling just short of LaGuardia Airport; Roosevelt Avenue on the south; the BQE on the west and Junction Boulevard on the east.

Merit Kabab Palace

This location was once a convenience store and fry shack called Merit Farms, but 15 years ago was transformed by new owners, who retained the breaded shrimp and chicken wings for sale in the front window, but added Bangladeshi fried and tandoori-cooked specialties. A steamtable mid-store sells multiple biryanis and South Asian river fish, while a counter in back offers Nepalese fare. This is one of the city’s foremost cheap eats places, where a samosa and chicken kabab will set you back only $4. 37-67 74th St.

Phayul

Indians arrived in the neighborhood in the last three decades of the 20th century, and the Tibetans appeared early in the next. Phayul — located up a curving stairway past a watch repair and beauty shop and founded in 2011 — became a makeshift community center. It’s still a great place to dine with a view of the neighborhood and a menu that runs to freshly made noodles and momos, stir fries of pork and beef, gyuma blood sausage (and other offal), and circular fried pies with a braided edge called shapaley. Most main courses cost around $15. 37-65 74th St.

Dosa Delight

South Indian fare is relatively rare in Jackson Heights, especially after the closing of Samudra recently. But Dosa Delight steps forward with a selection of the potato-stuffed sourdough pancakes that would make Jersey City’s India Square — a neighborhood famous for its South Indian fare — envious. There are a mind-boggling 28 choices, most priced $12 to $15, including newfangled ones like the cheddar cheese dosa, chocolate dosa and “Szechwan” (very little like actual Sichuan fare) dosa. 35-66 73rd St.

Cannelle Patisserie

One of the city’s most respected French bakeries is located in a fading strip mall in an obscure corner of Jackson Heights — but well worth hiking to from the 74th Street subway station. Cannelle Patisserie was co-founded in 2007 by Jean-Claude Perennou and Gnanasampanthan Sabaratnam, and in addition to the namesake cannelles, is also famous for its raspberry croissants, eclairs, and sandwiches made on baguettes — and a seating area makes the place a great lunch spot. Most pastries are $4 to $6. 75-59 31st Ave.

Taqueria Coatzingo

If asked the oldest and grandest of the Mexican restaurants in Jackson Heights, I’d have to say Taqueria Coatzingo, named after a town in the southern reaches of Puebla. The menu leans staunchly Pueblan, including chicharron in salsa verde, meat balls stuffed with quail eggs in chipotle sauce — and, on weekends, goat barbacoa. Most dishes cost $8 to $16, and there’s an affiliated honky tonk bar next door, El California, open till 3 a.m. or later. 76-05 Roosevelt Ave.

El Toum

Owner Sami Dib is a congenial presence in this small Lebanese café, named after a powerful garlic white sauce you may find yourself spooning on everything. Composed salads, bread dips, kebabs and rolled sandwiches are all good, but check the chalkboard outside for dishes such as Lebanese rigatoni with mushrooms and spinach, gazpacho and an El Toum lamb burger topped with cheese and a fried egg. A couple of outdoor tables offer a good view of the neighborhood. Most dishes are $6 to $25. 35-62 76th St.

Lakeside NYC

Owner Pashupati Shrestha was clearly focused on creating a modern Nepalese bistro, and his restaurant — named after a resort town on a lake in Nepal’s Katmandu Valley — has quickly become a destination for families of the Newar ethnic group hailing from the region. Head for the “Lakeside Local” portion of the menu for regional specialties, some featuring water buffalo and served on thalis, or order classic Nepalese noodles and momos. Most dishes cost $8 to $18. 77-05A 37th Ave.

Café Salamanca

Though opened in 1982, Café Salamanca looks much older, and even in Manhattan there are few Spanish old-timers of this caliber left. Sit in the handsome dining room and relax to the strains of a roving guitarist as you gobble Spanish tortillas, paellas, shrimp sauced a host of different ways, grilled veal and steaks, and lush seafood stews. Most dishes cost $10 to $36. 79-05 Northern Blvd.

El Chivito D’Oro

There are a handful of Uruguayan bakeries in Western Queens, but this is one of a very few full blown Uruguayan restaurants. The place is elegant in a fancy diner sort of way, and a meat market in front lets you examine your options among charcoal grilled meats, but there are all sorts of mayo-dressed salads, Italian-style pastas, and seafood entrees, too. Offal is a particular specialty, and you can economize by having meats and organs made into sandwiches rather than served on platters. Most dishes cost between $10 and $42. 84-02 37th Ave.

Mariscos El Submarino

This small restaurant with a playful design featuring a submarine with a moustache was one of the first in town to popularize Mexican aguachiles and ceviches, in the style of Sonora and the Baja Peninsula. Most are made with shrimp, octopus, and fish, and some utilize unexpected ingredients – soy sauce, for example. Seafood tacos are another specialty of Mariscos El Submarino, where most dishes run from $12 to $25. 88-05 Roosevelt Ave.